The cold is here and challenging months for the skin lie ahead. It's high time to adjust your daily skincare routine accordingly. Specifically rely on products with protective and strengthening "specialists" to keep your skin fresh and healthy through the winter.
When temperatures drop, the sebaceous glands produce less of the naturally protective lipid film of the skin barrier, and moisture can evaporate more easily from the surface. The skin dries out, feels tight, and itches. Additionally, small cracks can appear. In the cold, blood vessels also constrict to retain warmth within the body. However, this reduces blood flow to the skin – less oxygen and nutrients reach it, making it appear paler.
This strengthens the barrier
Added to this is the extreme change between dry heated air and cold. This means that the skin now needs support from particularly nourishing and protective ingredients. The following ingredients are ideal for making brittle winter skin glow again.
Ceramides are important endogenous lipids in the outermost layer of the skin and are among the indispensable building blocks that contribute to a healthy and functioning skin barrier. Ceramides consist of a fatty acid and sphingosine (a component of cell membranes) and, together with fatty acid molecules and cholesterol, form a kind of liquid and elastic "cement" between the small cells of the outer skin layer.
This "cement"
-
closes open gaps in the skin barrier,
- prevents the penetration of harmful substances (environmental pollution) and
- protects against moisture loss.
The connection between ceramides and skin health has been proven, which is why ceramides also hold high importance in medical cosmetics. A deficiency in these lipids leads to a barrier dysfunction – meaning dry, flaky, and irritated skin. Many studies have shown that skin creams with ceramides help the skin regain its balance and reduce discomfort in cases of barrier weakness. Since the skin produces fewer lipids in colder temperatures, the external application of ceramides is essential to relieve dry, brittle skin. They help strengthen the barrier and retain moisture in the skin.
Squalane is primarily derived from olive oil and is very similar to human sebum. Therefore, it integrates very well into the skin structure and absorbs quickly without leaving an unpleasant greasy feeling or clogging pores.
Preserving moisture
Squalane strengthens the formation of the natural hydro-lipid film and protects the skin from excessive transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Squalane permanently retains moisture in the skin and, with its regenerative properties, is suitable for the care of dry, sensitive, and barrier-damaged skin. The oil works particularly well in combination with hyaluronic acid or glycerin. In addition, squalane provides the skin with nutrients and protects against oxidative damage, as it is also an antioxidant. In winter, it ensures a radiant complexion with fewer dehydration lines.
Jiaogulan is a medicinal herb from Asia, also known as the "herb of immortality." With its gently harmonizing effect, it stabilizes the barrier of dry and sensitive skin. Hypofunctions of the skin (dryness, tightness) are stimulated by a reconstructive effect, and hyperfunctions (excessive sebum production) are regulated by a calming effect.
Thus, the plant extract helps the skin adapt to different stress situations. This adaptogenic effect improves overall skin functions and moisture retention. Since it also stimulates cell renewal, Jiaogulan serves as an excellent anti-aging ingredient that can even adapt to the most sensitive skin in winter and reduce wrinkle depth. In addition, with its antioxidant effect, Jiaogulan provides cell protection throughout the year.
Protect and regenerate
Ectoin, the "stress protection molecule," offers protection for cold-stressed skin. This amino acid derivative, derived from microorganisms that survive under extreme conditions, binds water molecules to itself, forming a stable, protective water layer. Skin cells, enzymes, and proteins are protected from external stressors such as dryness, heat, cold, and UV radiation. Ectoin has been shown to prevent skin and cell damage and even "repair" already damaged skin. It supplies the deeper skin layers with moisture and has a calming and anti-inflammatory effect on irritated skin. Furthermore, this anti-stress active ingredient is able to strengthen the entire barrier function and also provide the deep skin layers with plenty of moisture to counteract wrinkle formation.
Further important ingredients
Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii butter, see photo) strengthens the skin's lipid barrier, has a refatting effect, and moisturizes it. It calms, smooths, and provides the skin with numerous essential nutrients.
Lecithin ensures continuous skin renewal and regulates keratinization disorders. This refatting lipid strengthens the skin barrier and ensures good moisturization.
Vitamin E (Tocopherol) repairs skin damage and promotes cell renewal. This powerful antioxidant protects against free radicals and improves the skin's ability to retain moisture.
Humectants such as hyaluronic acid, urea, lactic acid, glycerin, sorbitol, panthenol, and aloe vera provide and bind moisture. They prevent dehydration and promote skin elasticity.
Niacinamide improves barrier function and promotes the formation of ceramides and free fatty acids. With its anti-inflammatory properties, it reduces redness and soothes the skin. It can also lighten hyperpigmentation and reduce wrinkles.
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Elisabeth Bergvall: The experienced beauty expert and consultant in the field of medical cosmetics is the owner and managing director of Nordesta. The Munich-based company develops and markets products for the Cosmeceutical Creyan Skin System.
Kosmetik International 12/2021