Article by Elisabeth Bergvall (owner of the products of the Cosmeceutical Creyan Skin System) in Kosmetik International 03/2022:
How often have you heard this question: “Do I really need a special eye cream yet?” The answer is a clear yes! Our expert explains which active ingredients prevent or alleviate signs of aging in the eye area.
The eyes are very expressive and reveal a lot about our emotions, mood, lifestyle, and age. Even our daily condition is reflected in our eyes. A bright and fresh eye area conveys a pleasant appearance, while dark circles can leave a tired, negative, or even angry impression. For people who value a well-groomed appearance and a positive aura, eye care is therefore essential. The first wrinkles that appear on the face with increasing age are most likely to form around the eye area. As a beautician, you are familiar with the reasons for this:
> The skin around the eyes lacks supportive subcutaneous fatty tissue, and there is also the natural loss of collagen and elastin with increasing age.
> Only a few sebaceous and sweat glands are active in this area. As a result, the eye area is usually somewhat drier than the rest of the facial skin, which promotes wrinkle formation.
> Around the eyes, the epidermis is particularly thin, with a thickness of approx. 0.1-0.5mm (facial skin: approx. 1.5-2 mm) and is more easily damaged by environmental influences.
> The eye area is heavily stressed by the mimic muscles, e.g., when blinking (approx. 15,000 times a day). When speaking and smiling, approx. 15 of the 22 muscles around the eye move. The thin skin also makes the eye area more sensitive and susceptible to allergic reactions and environmental influences than other areas of the facial skin.
Daily stress, working on screens, and lack of sleep can worsen dark circles, shadows, and puffiness. To address these typical problems and the complexity of the sensitive eye area more specifically, regular application of an eye cream with suitable active ingredients is recommended.
Care Specialists for the Sensitive Zone
Eye cream often has a light consistency that is quickly absorbed by the thin skin, yet nourishes the skin without weighing it down. In addition, special attention is paid to mild preservatives and the use of non-creeping or non-greasy oils for eye creams. These could get into the eyes, causing burning and irritation. If the primary need for care in the eye area is moisture and protection, a mild, well-formulated facial cream without fragrances, alcohols, and irritating preservatives and ingredients can also be used, depending on tolerance.
Preventive and corrective active ingredients can significantly contribute to a fresher and more radiant appearance around the eyes. For example, with the power ingredients Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Spilanthol, a muscle-relaxing effect can be achieved to impressively soften expression lines. In combination with hyaluronic acid, fine lines or "crow's feet" can also be visibly plumped up and smoothed quickly. Translucent capillaries also benefit from the plumping, moisturizing properties of hyaluronic acid, making them less visible.
Active ingredients such as retinol, retinol derivatives, vitamin C, and peptides can stimulate collagen production and thus strengthen the collagen framework – for denser, smoother skin in the eye area. The effect of retinol and vitamin C is very well documented and scientifically proven in studies. Retinol and vitamin C also have the anti-aging benefit of helping against sun damage and pigmentation spots, and they can refine the complexion.
Antioxidants and vitamin E provide cell protection, prevent premature aging, and make the skin barrier in the delicate eye area more resilient. In addition, antioxidants such as vitamin C and niacinamide can also alleviate pigmentation spots and reduce redness.
Alleviating Shadows and Swelling
Dark circles and puffy under-eye bags cannot be eliminated with skincare alone – regardless of their origin, i.e., whether caused by lifestyle, allergies, vitamin deficiencies, lack of sleep, or genetic predisposition. However, it is possible to achieve an improvement. Active ingredients that reduce puffiness include caffeine and special plant extracts such as Albizia julibrissin (silk tree extract).
> Caffeine helps reduce under-eye bags by draining them through increased microcirculation and constricting blood vessels (vasoconstriction).
> Albizia julibrissin from the bark of the Persian silk tree contains active ingredients that strengthen the thin capillary vessels around the eyes. Blood flow in the capillaries is stimulated by activating the natural detoxification system. Improved blood circulation leads to a reduction in pigment accumulation, dark circles, and simultaneously has a decongestant effect on under-eye bags.
Well-hydrated and supple
Since the skin around the eyes has very few active sebaceous glands, moisturizing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid or glycerin are essential to minimize dryness wrinkles. They are components of the natural moisturizing system and can strengthen the skin's regenerative capacity and reduce irritation. Aloe vera and D-panthenol are further multi-talents with anti-inflammatory and itch-relieving properties. Nourishing oils and lipids such as squalane, shea butter, argan oil, and ceramides are important for locking in moisture and strengthening the skin barrier. Squalane is particularly suitable for the eye area because it is a light oil with strong antioxidant effects. It is a natural component of the skin barrier and therefore has high tolerability. This multi-active and highly nourishing oil is quickly absorbed without being overly greasy, protects, and ensures a more even eye area. The effect of a well-formulated eye cream in the daily skincare routine is more visible than in other facial areas. Therefore, a low-irritant, targeted eye cream is recommended for clients from around 25 years of age to prevent lines and wrinkles.
Elisabeth Bergvall: The experienced beauty expert and consultant in the field of medical cosmetics is the owner and managing director of Nordesta. The Munich-based company develops and markets products for the Cosmeceutical Creyan Skin System.
Kosmetik International 03/2023
Article in Kosmetik International (click to download):
