Article in Kosmetik International: 'Repair Helpers for Your Skin'

Article by Elisabeth Bergvall (owner of the Cosmeceutical Creyan Skin System products) in Kosmetik International 08/2021:

Summer is good for us in many ways: It recharges us with energy and gives our complexion a bit of color. Its negative effects on the skin can be wonderfully balanced with selected repair active ingredients.

 

The skin is considerably stressed and thrown out of balance by environmental factors such as sun, air conditioning, chlorine, and wind. UV radiation leads to the formation of free radicals and the breakdown of collagen fibers. The skin tends to become drier and browner. In addition, UVA and blue light rays are partly responsible for the formation of pigment spots. Due to sweat and sunscreen, the skin also appears "clogged" and impure. Therefore, after summer, the first step should be to get rid of old cells and thoroughly cleanse the skin. A gentle peel is ideal for this.

 

CELL PROTECTION FROM THE DESERT

 

A true SOS stress protection molecule is the repair active ingredient ECTOIN. This multi-talent is a natural, cell-protective substance (an amino acid derivative) and is produced by microorganisms that thrive under very harsh conditions, for example, in salt lakes and deserts. To survive, they produce a protective and nourishing layer of water, which also stabilizes cells, proteins, enzymes, and other biomolecules. This water-binding protective shield function makes the microorganisms insensitive to extreme and harmful environmental influences and prevents them from drying out. The same protective effect has been demonstrated in human skin cells. Ectoin is a relatively new but researched active ingredient that was only discovered by scientists in the mid-1980s. In medicine, it is often used for its wound-healing and anti-inflammatory effects, especially for allergy control and also for its ability to stabilize the mucous membrane barrier.

Ectoin is valuable for cosmetic application because it demonstrably prevents skin and cell damage and can repair and regenerate aged, already damaged skin.

Ectoin is capable of

• strengthening the overall functions of the skin barrier,
• boosting collagen production, and
• providing deep skin layers with plenty of moisture. This moisturization also has an anti-inflammatory effect and counteracts wrinkle formation. Ectoin can maintain moisture levels at a stable level, which is beneficial for dry summer skin in need of regeneration. In combination with hyaluronic acid, the effect is enhanced – the skin looks significantly plumper and fresher.

 

NIACINAMIDE is a form of vitamin B3, whose versatile effects and tolerability have been proven by numerous independent clinical studies. It is considered very stable, well tolerated, and can penetrate the skin well due to its low molecular weight.

 

PRESERVING MOISTURE

 

This dermatological multi-talent helps to regenerate a damaged skin barrier by

• regulating cell renewal (promoting collagen formation) and
• activating the synthesis of free fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides. These important components of the epidermis bind moisture and protect against its loss. This significantly improves the epidermal barrier function.

Studies also show that niacinamide can improve pigment and age spots, wrinkles, and redness. Since sun damage also causes a coarse skin texture with enlarged pores, niacinamide can visibly reduce pores not only in acne and impure skin but also in mature skin. For oily, impure skin, niacinamide helps regulate sebum production. Niacinamide achieves similar results to retinol or fruit acid, without making the skin photosensitive. On the contrary, the active ingredient additionally protects cells from oxidative damage. Even in low concentrations (2–5%), dry skin and complexion are improved.

 

WHAT ELSE IS GOOD FOR SUMMER SKIN:

 

Panthenol (Vitamin B5) – moisturizing, supports the skin barrier, improves wound healing of damaged/irritated skin.

Vitamin C + E – powerful antioxidants, anti-inflammatory, cell-renewing, reduce skin damage caused by UV radiation. Vitamin C has a brightening effect and stimulates the skin's own collagen synthesis.

Ceramides – fatty building blocks of the skin that strengthen a damaged barrier and can reduce transepidermal water loss.

Hyaluronic acid, Aloe vera, Glycerin – moisturizing, ensure natural elasticity and reduce dryness lines. Aloe vera has strong anti-inflammatory properties and promotes blood circulation as well as the production of collagen and elastic fibers in the connective tissue.

Vitamin A (derivatives), peptides, plankton and growth factors – effective cell regulators for sun damage, stimulate the skin's repair mechanisms, stimulate the formation of collagen or elastic fibers.

 

Elisabeth Bergvall: The experienced beauty expert and consultant in the field of medical cosmetics is the owner and managing director of Nordesta. The Munich-based company develops and markets products for the Cosmeceutical Creyan Skin System.

Kosmetik International 08/2021

 

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