Artikel in Kosmetik Int. 'Sanfte Helfer bei Couperose'

Article in Kosmetik Int. 'Gentle Helpers for Couperose'

Article by Elisabeth Bergvall (Owner of the Cosmeceutical Creyan Skin System products) in Kosmetik International 07/2022:

 

Summer is here, and for many people affected by couperose, this means a time when their skin problems worsen. Reliable UV protection is now more important than ever – and modern active ingredients that strengthen the barrier and soothe irritation.

 

 

For many sufferers, it would be a dream to get a handle on the uncomfortable couperose/rosacea, which leads to facial redness and is sometimes confused with acne or seborrheic dermatitis.
Symptoms vary widely and are experienced differently by individuals. This makes diagnosis difficult. Rosacea can be constant, but can also occur in flare-ups, temporarily flaring up and then subsiding again. Between flare-ups, there is a good opportunity to stabilize and strengthen the skin barrier.

Rosacea is not curable, but the symptoms can be significantly alleviated through proper treatment, care, an adapted lifestyle, and avoidance of triggers. A diagnosis should always be made by a dermatologist so that rosacea can be treated as quickly and effectively as possible. In addition to prescription medications, there are several very suitable and potent cosmetic active ingredients that have been proven to alleviate rosacea symptoms or can supplement medicinal treatment in severe cases as an adjuvant therapy.

Suitable Formulations

In addition to selecting appropriate active ingredients, gentle, moisturizing formulations with light textures and a neutral pH value should also be used. Skincare products with a low-fat formula and few film-forming ingredients prevent heat build-up on the skin, which could promote further inflammation. It is also advisable to avoid irritants such as PEGs, drying, soap-based surfactants, menthol, and alcohols to avoid further weakening or irritating the skin barrier.

Ingredients with circulation-promoting effects such as menthol or camphor are also not very suitable. Since there are various forms and stages of rosacea and symptoms vary greatly individually, ingredients can have different effects. For some sufferers, it is often very tedious and difficult to find the right care and treatment. Rosacea can be very stressful and have an extreme impact on well-being.

Gentle Alternative to Vitamin A

Kinetin is an important plant growth factor and a powerful antioxidant. It delays the signs of aging in plant cells. The same effect on human skin has been proven. Kinetin stimulates repair mechanisms and strengthens blood vessels. Its spectrum of activity is comparable to that of retinoids – but without the known side effects of retinol treatment, such as irritation, dryness, and photosensitivity. Cell renewal is stimulated, leading to a more robust skin barrier and smoother skin with fewer rough patches. Thus, kinetins are suitable for sensitive skin and also represent an effective vitamin A alternative for rosacea patients that can be used long-term. Kinetin furfuryl tetrahydropyranyl adenine has been proven in several clinical studies and is used by many practitioners as long-term care for rosacea. The active ingredient furfuryl tetrahydropyranyl adenine has strong anti-inflammatory, soothing properties, can strengthen the skin's barrier function, and counteract the typical signs of rosacea such as redness, dilation of small blood vessels, and the so-called flush, thus significantly reducing symptoms. This active ingredient is a multi-talent as a rosacea ingredient that, with its antioxidant properties, can protect the skin from premature skin aging and pigment spots.

Strengthen Defenses, Reduce Germs

 

Beta-glucan is still an insider tip for beautiful skin and also valuable for rosacea skin because it strengthens the skin's own immune system. Beta-glucan can support the natural skin flora in defending against invading bacteria and viruses that can cause infections. Chemically, beta-glucan is a polysaccharide (complex sugar) and is found in high concentrations, for example, in the germ layer of oat grains. With its powerful anti-inflammatory properties, it reduces redness, irritation, and supports healing processes. At the same time, it can promote new collagen formation for more elastic and regenerated skin. Beta-glucan sustainably improves moisture retention in the skin by drawing water into its upper layers – a long chain of beta-glucan molecules thus forms a thin protective film on the skin's surface. This protects the skin from drying out and thus strengthens the function of its natural barrier. Beta-glucan is very well tolerated and also has smoothing and antioxidant effects. 

Azelaic acid – Many know this active ingredient from the drug Skinoren, but it is also contained in over-the-counter products. Before using highly concentrated azelaic acid, it is advisable to consult a dermatologist. Azelaic acid has an anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effect. It destroys the structure of protein components that are essential for the growth and reproduction of certain bacteria that can cause acne. Thus, pustules and redness can be alleviated. Azelaic acid has a similar effect to a peel; it can remove keratinized skin cells, reduce impurities, and refine the skin. In addition, the substance has antioxidant and brightening effects. For cosmetic use, it is produced from castor oil and potassium permanganate. When using azelaic acid, irritation, itching, and dry skin may occur.

MSM (methylsulfonylmethane) is an organic sulfur that can restore collagen and keratin, the basic building blocks for healthy skin. Sulfur is the third most common mineral in our body and performs a variety of biological tasks, including for our skin. The mineral can supply deep skin layers with sulfur and is used for treating severe inflammation, redness, and scar tissue. It is antibacterial, reduces sebum production, and removes dead skin cells. MSM works very well in the treatment of rosacea and acne by reducing redness, nodules, skin blemishes, and itching without side effects. MSM can open clogged pores and mattify the skin without drying it out.

Soothe and Alleviate Redness

Niacinamide improves barrier function and promotes the formation of ceramides and free fatty acids. Due to its anti-inflammatory properties, niacinamide reduces redness and calms the skin. It can also mitigate pigment spots and reduce wrinkles.

Zinc prevents inflammation with its anti-inflammatory, antiviral, and antibiotic properties. This trace element regulates sebum production and reduces skin damage from bacteria.

Green tea extract accelerates the healing process, alleviates irritation, and reduces facial redness. It also has antioxidant and antibacterial effects, gently cleanses the skin, and removes impurities.

Licorice root extract strengthens the skin and has soothing and anti-irritant effects.

Vitamin E (tocopherol) is anti-inflammatory and skin-soothing. Various studies have shown that vitamin E effectively reduces redness and protects skin cells from UV rays. The antioxidant vitamin also has hydrating effects and promotes cell renewal in the skin.

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, and also protects and strengthens blood vessels.

Panthenol/Vitamin B5 has a soothing effect and increases the skin's moisture retention capacity. Panthenol has anti-itch, wound-healing, and anti-inflammatory properties.

Aloe vera can exert its anti-inflammatory effect in the deep skin layers and helps reduce heat development and itching.

Cleanse and Protect

Mild, soap-free cleansing agents in pH-neutral washing lotions or syndets protect sensitive skin without drying or irritating it. Suitable mild surfactants: Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate and all surfactants ending with "Glucoside" or "Betaine". Since UV radiation is one of the strong irritant factors, consistent use of sun protection with effective UV filters is extremely important for those affected.

 

 

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Elisabeth Bergvall: The experienced beauty expert and consultant in the field of medical cosmetics is the owner and managing director of Nordesta. The Munich-based company develops and markets products for the Cosmeceutical Creyan Skin System.

Kosmetik International 07/2022