Gentle helpers for couperose

Article by Elisabeth Bergvall (owner of the products of the Cosmeceutical Creyan Skin System) in Cosmetics International 07/2022:

Summer is here, and for many people affected by couperose it is a time when their skin problems worsen. Reliable UV protection is now more important than ever - and modern active ingredients that strengthen the barrier and relieve irritation.

For many sufferers, it would be a dream come true to get a grip on the nasty couperose/rosacea that causes reddening of the face and is sometimes confused with acne or seborrheic dermatitis.
The symptoms vary greatly and are felt differently by the individual. This makes diagnosis difficult. Rosacea can be constant, but it can also occur in phases, flare up at times and then subside again. Between the attacks there is a good opportunity to stabilize and strengthen the skin barrier.

There is no cure for rosacea, but symptoms can be significantly reduced with proper treatment, care, lifestyle choices, and avoidance of the triggers. A diagnosis should always be made by a dermatologist so that rosacea can be treated as quickly and specifically as possible. In addition to prescription drugs, there are some very suitable and potent cosmetic ingredients that have been shown to relieve rosacea symptoms or supplement drug treatment in severe cases as adjuvant therapy.

Appropriate formulations

In addition to selecting the right active ingredients, you should also pay attention to gentle, moisturizing formulations with light textures and a neutral pH value. Care products with a low-fat formula and few film-forming active ingredients prevent heat build-up on the skin, which could promote further inflammation. It is also advisable to avoid irritants such as PEG, drying soapy surfactants, menthol and alcohols to avoid further weakening or irritating the skin barrier.

Ingredients with a circulation-promoting effect, such as e.g. B. menthol or camphor. Since there are different forms and stages of rosacea and the symptoms vary greatly from person to person, ingredients can have a different effect. It is often very tedious and difficult for some of those affected to find the appropriate care and treatment. Rosacea can be very distressing and have an extreme impact on well-being.

Gentle alternative to vitamin A

Kinetin is an important plant growth factor and a powerful antioxidant. It delays the signs of aging in plant cells. The same effect on human skin has been proven. Kinetin stimulates repair mechanisms and has a vascular strengthening effect. Its spectrum of activity is comparable to that of retinoids - but without the well-known side effects of retinol treatment, such as irritation, dryness and sensitivity to light. Cell renewal is boosted, resulting in a more robust skin barrier and smoother skin with fewer rough patches. Kinetins are therefore suitable for sensitive skin and are also an effective vitamin A alternative for rosacea patients that can be used over the longer term. Kinetin Furfuryl Tetrahydropyranyl Adenine has been proven in multiple clinical studies and is used by many practitioners as long-term care for rosacea. The active ingredient furfuryl tetrahydropyranyl adenine has strong anti-inflammatory, soothing properties, can strengthen the skin's barrier function and counteract the typical signs of rosacea such as redness, dilatation of small capillaries and the so-called flush, thus significantly reducing the symptoms. As a rosacea active ingredient, this active ingredient is a multi-talent that, with its antioxidant properties, can protect the skin from premature skin aging and pigment spots.

Strengthen defenses, reduce germs

Beta-glucan is still an insider tip for beautiful skin and is also valuable for rosacea skin because it strengthens the skin's own immune system. Beta-glucan can support the skin's natural flora in defending against invading bacteria and viruses that can cause infection. From a chemical point of view, beta-glucan is a polysaccharide (multiple sugar) and comes in high doses, e.g. B. in the germ layer of oat grain. With its powerful anti-inflammatory properties, it reduces redness, irritation and supports the healing processes. At the same time, it can promote collagen regeneration for more elastic and regenerated skin. Beta-glucan sustainably improves moisture retention in the skin by drawing water into its upper layers - a long chain of beta-glucan molecules forms a thin protective film on the skin's surface in this way. This protects the skin from drying out and thus strengthens the function of its natural barrier. Beta-glucan is very well tolerated and also has a smoothing and antioxidant effect.

Azealic Acid – Many are familiar with the active ingredient from the drug Skinoren, but it is also found in over-the-counter products. Before using highly concentrated azealic acid, it is advisable to consult a dermatologist. Azealic acid has an anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effect. It destroys the build-up of protein components that are essential for the growth and reproduction of certain bacteria that can cause acne. Thus, pustules and redness can be alleviated. Azealic acid has an effect similar to a peeling, it can remove calloused skin cells, reduce impurities and refine the skin. The substance also has an antioxidant and brightening effect. For cosmetic use, it is made from castor oil and potassium permanganate. Azealic acid can cause irritation, itching, and dry skin.

MSM (Methylsulfonylmethane) is an organic type of sulfur that can restore collagen and keratin, the building blocks of healthy skin. Sulfur is the third most common mineral in our body and performs a variety of biological tasks, including our skin. The mineral can supply sulfur to the deep layers of the skin and is used to treat severe inflammation, redness and scar tissue. It is antibacterial, reduces sebum formation and removes dead skin cells. MSM works very well in treating rosacea and acne by reducing redness, nodules, blemishes and itching without any side effects. MSM can unclog pores and mattify the skin without drying it out.

Soothe and relieve redness

Niacinamide improves the barrier function and promotes the formation of ceramides and free fatty acids. With its anti-inflammatory properties, niacinamide reduces redness and soothes the skin. It can also soften pigment spots and reduce wrinkles.

Zinc prevents inflammation through its anti-inflammatory, antiviral, and antibiotic properties. The trace element regulates sebum production and reduces skin damage caused by bacteria.

Green tea extract accelerates the healing process, soothes irritation and reduces redness on the face. It also has an antioxidant and antibacterial effect, cleanses the skin very gently and removes impurities.

Licorice root extract strengthens the skin and has a calming and soothing effect.

Vitamin E (tocopherol) is anti-inflammatory and skin-soothing. Various studies have shown that vitamin E effectively reduces redness and protects skin cells from UV rays. The antioxidant vitamin also has a hydrating effect and promotes cell renewal in the skin.

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) has an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect, and it also protects and strengthens the blood vessels

Panthenol/vitamin B5 has a calming effect and increases the skin's ability to retain moisture. Panthenol has anti-itching, wound healing and anti-inflammatory properties.

Aloe vera can develop its anti-inflammatory effect in the deep layers of the skin and helps to reduce heat build-up and itching.

Clean and protect

Mild, soap-free cleaning agents in pH-neutral washing lotions or syndets protect sensitive skin without drying it out or irritating it. Suitable mild surfactants: Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate and any surfactant ending in the name Gluccoside or Betaine. Since UV radiation is one of the strongest irritant factors, consistent use of sun protection with effective UV filters is extremely important for those affected.

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Elisabeth Bergvall: The experienced beauty expert and consultant in the field of medical cosmetics is the owner and managing director of Nordesta. The Munich-based company develops and markets products from the Creyan Skin System cosmeceuticals.

Cosmetics International 07/2022