Article by Elisabeth Bergvall (owner of the products of the Cosmeceutical Creyan Skin System) in Cosmetics International 08/2021:

Summer is good for us in many ways: it recharges us with energy and gives the complexion a bit of color. Its negative effects on the skin can be wonderfully balanced with selected repair ingredients.

The skin is stressed and thrown off balance by environmental influences such as the sun, air conditioning, chlorine and wind. UV radiation leads to the formation of free radicals and to the breakdown of collagen fibers. The skin tends to become drier and tan. In addition, the UVA and blue light rays are partly responsible for the development of pigment spots. Sweat and sunscreen also make the skin look “clogged” and impure. Therefore, after the summer, the first thing to do is to get rid of the old cells and cleanse the skin thoroughly. A gentle peeling is ideal for this.

CELL PROTECTION FROM THE DESERT

A true SOS stress protection molecule is the repair agent ECTOIN . The all-rounder is a natural, cell-protecting substance (an amino acid derivative) and is produced by microorganisms that live under very harsh conditions, e.g. B. occur in salt lakes and deserts. To survive, they produce a protective and nourishing layer of water that also stabilizes cells, proteins, enzymes, and other biomolecules. This water-binding protective shield function makes the microorganisms insensitive to extreme and harmful environmental influences and protects them from drying out. The same protective effect could be demonstrated in human skin cells. Ectoin is a relatively new but researched compound, first discovered by scientists in the mid-1980s. In medicine, it is widely used for its wound-healing and anti-inflammatory effects, primarily to combat allergies, and also for its ability to stabilize the mucosal barrier.

Ectoin is valuable for cosmetic use because it has been proven to prevent skin and cell damage and can repair and regenerate aged, already damaged skin.

Ectoin is able to

• to strengthen the overall functions of the skin barrier,
• boost collagen production and
• to provide the deep layers of the skin with a lot of moisture. This moisture penetration also has an anti-inflammatory effect and counteracts the formation of wrinkles. Ectoin can keep the moisture level at a stable level, which is beneficial for dry summer skin in need of regeneration. In combination with hyaluronic acid, the effect is enhanced - the skin looks noticeably plumper and fresher.

NIACINAMID is a form of vitamin B3 whose versatile effects and tolerability have been proven by numerous independent clinical studies. It is considered very stable, well tolerated and can penetrate the skin well due to its low molecular weight.

MAINTAIN MOISTURE

The all-rounder of dermatology helps to regenerate a damaged skin barrier by

• regulates cell renewal (which promotes collagen formation) and
• activates the synthesis of free fatty acids, cholesterol and ceramides. These important components of the epidermis bind moisture and protect against its loss. This significantly improves the epidermal barrier function.

Studies also show that niacinamide can improve pigment and age spots, wrinkles and redness. Since sun damage also causes a coarse complexion with enlarged pores, niacinamide can not only visibly reduce the pores of acne and impure skin, but also of mature skin. In the case of oily, impure skin, niacinamide helps to regulate the production of sebum. Niacinamide does something similar to retinol or fruit acid without making the skin photosensitive. On the contrary, the active ingredient also protects the cells from oxidative damage. Even at low concentrations (2-5%), dry skin and the complexion are improved.

WHAT IS ALSO GOOD FOR SUMMER SKIN:

Panthenol (Vitamin B5) – moisturizing, supports the skin barrier, improves wound healing of damaged/irritated skin.

Vitamin C + E – strong antioxidants, anti-inflammatory, cell renewal, reduce skin damage caused by UV radiation. Vitamin C has a lightening effect and stimulates the skin's own collagen synthesis.

Ceramides – skin's lipid building blocks that can strengthen a damaged barrier and reduce transepidermal water loss.

Hyaluronic acid, aloe vera, glycerin - moisturizing, ensure natural elasticity and reduce dryness lines. Aloe vera has strong anti-inflammatory properties and promotes blood circulation and the production of collagen and elastic fibers in connective tissue.

Vitamin A (derivatives), peptides, plankton and growth factors - effective cell regulators for sun damage, stimulate the skin's repair mechanisms, stimulate the formation of collagen or elastic fibers.

Elisabeth Bergvall: The experienced beauty expert and consultant in the field of medical cosmetics is the owner and managing director of Nordesta. The Munich company develops and markets products for the cosmeceutical Creyan Skin System.

Cosmetics International 08/2021

Article in Cosmetics International: